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The gorge gaped immense, swallowing villages far below as we advanced onwards, upwards — a scene wildly contrasting the ironed white tablecloth supporting the mint tea and nut crescent before me. My refreshments were advancing towards Slovenia at considerable speed but, alas, were not destined to survive that far. The train's dining car, with its comfy black leather seats, popsicle-shaped lamps and a lack of screaming children was almost empty on a Tuesday morning.